Haifa Alshammari
RIYADH: Saudis are keeping alive a centuries-old social tradition centered around coffee culture.
For generations communities have got together to enjoy shabbah, the custom of preparing and drinking coffee while listening to poetry and storytelling.
Originating in the north of the Kingdom, partakers of all ages gather around a najr – an iron pot used to grind cardamom for coffee – to chat and share news.
Coffee drinker Faris Altawalah, from the country’s north, told Arab News: “Most people gather at a specific time because they are busy at work, so they set a specific day and time to meet at the shabbah.
“I receive visitors throughout the day, and many people do the same, enjoying the shabbah at home where visitors sometimes stay for hours.”
Hosts traditionally leave their doors open to allow guests to come and go at their leisure and socialize over coffee and refreshments with other members of the community.
As well as tea and coffee, dates and fruit are among foods served.
The shabbah host uses special equipment to prepare the coffee including the najr, and al-majl, a flat circular iron for roasting beans.
Shabbah gatherings are traditionally considered to be a symbol of generosity and strong family ties, built on established values and principles, and respect between old and young people.
In the past, it was customary to serve influential members of the community first, a common practice when nomadic Bedouin tribes travelled the desert.
The shabbah custom of flipping the cup over the coffee pot, to signal that the head of the household was away but that guests were welcome to serve themselves, remains popular.
Doors may be open for shabbah at any time, although the elderly often prefer to meet after morning prayer. “We join them to learn from them and listen to their interesting stories,” Altawalah said.
